Adventures in Michigan

Greg Dungan

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It's blue. It's deep. It's cold. It's Lake Michigan and it's beautiful.

Here at PCS Adventures, I get to be the “Design Guy” and the “Fountain of Ideas.” That’s what Denise says anyway.  Every week we have a meeting to discuss business, website traffic, marketing, and all of the various projects going on within the organization.  I have posted tons of great articles on the website, but I’ve never written one – until now.

I’ve didn’t serve in the military (although I have many close friends and relatives who did).  Therefore, I’ve never PCS’d.  I’ve never climbed volcanoes in Hawaii or been stationed in exotic places like California or Kansas.  For the last 53 years (other than a brief summer spent in Wisconsin) I have lived in the shadow of Wright Patterson Air Force Base in Western Ohio.

While this fact doesn’t make me a well-traveled man of military mystery, it does make me uniquely positioned to offer a tour of our neighboring state of Michigan.  I grew up in a proud Buckeye family and my dad (a strict Woody Hayes devotee) wouldn’t have been caught dead in Michigan during my childhood.  So, I had to wait until the freedom of adulthood to venture north on my own. Over the last 30 years or so, my family and I have made multiple trips up there and I can tell you that it’s worth the drive.

Lake Michigan

My favorite region is the shore of Lake Michigan.  The towns are old and full of interesting things.  The food is good.  My wife loves the shopping.  There are tons of things to do and see.  And Lake Michigan is so cool.  I mean that literally, the water is always cold.  The lake is so deep that it just seems to stay that way, but it’s very refreshing in the summer heat.  The beaches are amazing and the water is clear, blue, and beautiful.

Another fun feature of the lake is that you’re on the east side of it.  That means you get the sunsets – and they are epic.  In fact, sunsets are a major attraction at Ludington State Park.  People turn out in droves every evening to pack the railings and surrounding areas of the big beach building just to watch the sun set over the lake.  More about Ludington later.

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Our first stop heading north is South Haven, the quintessential Michigan beach town.

The Big Three

As far as beach towns go, there are three main stops: South Haven, Holland, and Grand Haven.  Benton Harbor is also nice, but I’m going to focus on the main three.  As you head north, South Haven is your first encounter.  Our favorite place to stay in this area is the KOA Holiday campground just outside of town.  It is family owned and operated with tons of activities and amenities including “You-Pick” blueberry patches throughout the park.  Campers are permitted to pick blueberries for free, so we would often collect some to use in our pancakes and oatmeal.

If you didn’t eat at camp, you should stop on the way into town at my favorite South Haven Food Find: The Wooden Shoe Restaurant and Antique Mall.  It’s not fancy, but the food is affordable and amazing!  I highly recommend beginning your day with breakfast there.  Eat yourself silly.  You’ll need the strength for all of the walking later and then take an order of cinnamon rolls with you when you go for a campsite breakfast the next day.  You’ll thank me.

South Haven features lots of fun destinations such as South Beach, North Beach, Kal-Haven Trail, The Michigan Maritime Museum, and the South Pier Lighthouse.  Some of the more unique shops include Vintage Charm, Sticky Spoons Jam, and the Blueberry Store.  However, my favorite afternoon stop is Sherman’s Dairy.  They make the most delicious ice cream and serve it up in massive scoops that are perfect for a hot summer day.

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Tulips, shops, beaches, and great food. Holland has it all.

Heading North

Moving north from South Haven, you’ll encounter Holland, Michigan. Holland is the home of the Tulip Festival in May, Windmill Island Gardens, and Nelis’ Dutch Village.  Holland is unique in that it surrounds Lake Macatawa, a 1,780 acre drowned river-mouth lake with water supplied courtesy of Lake Michigan.  Macatawa begins where it meets lake Michigan and stretches all the way into town culminating in a large harbor full of boats.

Holland features a downtown loaded with shops, restaurants, and plenty of coffeehouses.  Stop into KIN Coffee and Craft House if you’re down by the harbor.  It’s a great place for that quiet morning joe while you plan the your adventures.  Then cap off your day with a gorgeous sunset on the beach near the Holland Harbor Lighthouse.  It’s a great way to enjoy the summer weather and it’s still just a short drive from the campground in South Haven.

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If you love lighthouses, the Grand Haven Pier and Lighthouse is a must see.

The third stop on our tour up the coast is Grand Haven.  Much like it’s siblings, Grand Haven is full of quaint shops and fun restaurants.  It also features unique attractions like the Grand Haven Pier and Lighthouse, Grand Haven State Park, the Grand Haven Musical Fountain, and more.

My favorite food find near Grand Haven is The Stable Inn.  It’s south of town on Route 31.  Like the Wooden Shoe, it’s not fancy, but trust me the prime rib is fantastic!  The atmosphere is decidedly Midwestern and the staff is always kind and friendly.  It’s the type of place where the locals go while the tourists are in town overpaying for trendy food in the high-rent districts.  After a long day among the masses, you’ll be glad for the quiet and the quality of the experience.

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You just can't beat the sunsets at Ludington State Park.

King of the Parks

There’s one more stop that bears mention in this article and that’s Ludington State Park in Ludington, MI.  It’s an hour north of Grand Haven, so there’s a good bit of driving involved, but the payoff is worth it in my opinion.  The beach isn’t part of a city, the campground is second to none, and the sunsets are even more spectacular.  It might be worth pulling up stakes on a Grand Haven day and ending up in Ludington for a night or two.

Ludington has some very interesting features such as its own inland lake as well as access to Lake Michigan.  Hamlin Lake is great for kayaking.  In fact there was an island just behind our campsite connected by a boardwalk where people would simply beach their boats when they weren’t on the water.  Then, when it was time for another three hour tour, they would just walk out and shove off.

Large ship, the SS Badger car ferry coal-fired steamer, leaves port and passes by the North Breakwater Light in Ludington, Michigan. | PCS Adventures

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The S.S. Badger is part ferry, part cruise ship, and the best way to get to the Holy Land.

Ferry to the Holy Land

When we visited, the real purpose of being in Ludington was to catch the ferry.  The S.S. Badger Lake Michigan Carferry Service was our ticket to the Holy Land.  Oh, did I mention that we’re Packers fans?  The ferry has run back and forth across Lake Michigan between Lugington and Manitowac, WI since 1953.

It takes approximately four hours to cross the lake at one of it’s narrower places and the voyage is fantastic.  The S.S. Badger is over 400 feet long and over five stories tall.  It can haul 620 passengers and180 automobiles along with buses, RVs, semi-trucks, and train cars.  It is crewed by 50-60 people and it weighs more than 4,000 tons.  There are multiple dining rooms, TV lounges, movie lounges, a children’s play area, a gift shop, a museum, and more.

After we ate breakfast, I spent the morning looking a nothing but water and then enjoying a peaceful nap as we cruised the deep waters of the Great Lake.  I highly recommend the experience.

Whether you go for the shopping, the parks, the sunsets, or the food, the western coast of Michigan will offer plenty of incredible memories to last a lifetime and keep you coming back.  Have fun out there.