Petrified Forest National Park, AZ

We move a lot, like every couple years, thanks to the Army.  So on my eighth move in 15 years, I decided to seize the day.  Some called me crazy for combining a California-to-Maryland move with a photo shoot at the Petrified Forest National Park in eastern Arizona.  But I couldn’t pass up the opportunity.

My research for this ambitious combo military move and photo shoot included rental properties in Maryland, best times to photograph at the Petrified Forest, hotels in Holbrook and “Free State” veterinarians for our dog Lucky.  My desk morphed into the command center for “Operation Shoot and Scoot”.

I was organized.  I was ready.  But experience also taught me that no matter how carefully you plan, chaos always takes place before, during and after the packers put all of your worldly goods in boxes and whisk them on to a truck. 

This particular move was going much better than the last.  The only thing they forgot to pack was the empty 4’x2’ garden box from the backyard.  No problem.  We’d find a spot in the van.  Yeah.  Let’s see.  Unpack everything.  Flip down the seats.  Maybe put it on the floor. Then we could pile suitcases, computer cases, Army stuff, the dog accoutrements and case after case of camera gear on top.  Yep. That should work. 

Our finely crafted jigsaw puzzle known as “the van” gave Lucky just enough room for three of his paws to fit in the allotted space.  Tight but his nose rested on top of the crackers and granola bars.  That’s the definition of Lucky heaven.

On The Road To Adventure

And so our journey began.  We left Northern California and made great time on our way to Arizona.  First stop: drop the husband and Lucky off at our hotel in Holbrook.  Lucky wanted adventure but he settled for the treats my husband fed him.  My husband alternated watching TV and completing his final graduate class assignment during the commercials.

Meanwhile, I drove 25 minutes from Holbrook to the southern end of the Petrified Forest National Park. Remnants of a lush tropical rainforest that used to cover this part of Arizona make this place special.  Giant trees, delicate ferns and a variety of dinosaurs roamed what now is a complete desert.  Gradually over time the landscape changed.  Sediment buried trees and animals that became petrified wood and fossils.

Then, in reverse, erosion exposed the long-buried treasures.  The story of Arizona’s early occupants slowly emerged.

Because of this unique history, 645,000 visitors flock to the park each year.  Even if I had plenty of time to thoroughly explore the park, crowds and limited hours (8 a.m. to 5 p.m. in the winter) precluded sunrise and sunset photos.

But winter gave me two advantages.  First, fewer people visited in the winter.  Second, dates close to the winter solstice provided surprisingly good light throughout the day because the sun was lower in the sky.

This rich landscape clearly held a few challenges and many treasures. I just needed to adjust my expectations and get creative.

Exploring Trails

Knowing all of that, I started with the southern end of the park because it contained the most petrified wood.  The Giant Logs Trail behind the Rainbow Forest Museum building supposedly sported some of the biggest chunks of petrified wood in the park.  True, but lots of people milled around and split lighting made it impossible to get a clean photo.

I quickly decided to move on to the Blue Mesa Trail, about 20 minutes north of the visitors center.  My research indicated this trail showcased petrified wood and colorful bentonite clay hills that could really make the photos pop with the right light.  It was the best of both worlds.

The mile long trail started with a slightly upward grade.  I lucked out on this crisp December day.  Brilliant blue skies with puffy white clouds provided the perfect backdrop for the hills and petrified wood.  I spent about two hours on the trail, working the area for “the” shot. 

I did feel some pressure to make this photo shoot count by bringing back a stellar photo.  But the longer I photographed, the more I relaxed and noticed the small things like the peacefulness, vibrant colors, unusual formations and cracks in the clay.  The chaos of the move faded away.  To borrow a phrase from photographer Rick Sammon, I experienced Photo Therapy.

Feeling satisfied, I ended my first day at the Petrified Forest.   The next morning I spent about two hours at the northern end of the park exploring the historic Route 66 and Painted Desert Inn area.  The rich colors of the desert were a feast for my eyes.

Looking Back

My time at the Petrified Forest National Park might have been brief, but it was an important stop on our very long move. Every time I look at my photos, I remember the time that this crazy lady’s idea to do a photo shoot while moving resulted in more than a good photo.  It provided some much needed Photo Therapy in between California and Maryland.

Closest Military Installations

MWR Locations Nearby

If You Go:

• There are two entrances to the park.   The southern entrance along Highway 180 gets you closest to the Rainbow Forest Museum and the largest swath of trails to view the wood that makes the park famous.  The northern entrance off Interstate 40 takes you to the Painted Desert, the Painted Desert Visitor Center and several historic buildings as well as access to the northern part of the Petrified Forest.
• Entrance fee for a 7 day vehicle pass is $25.  Motorcyclists pay a flat fee of $20.  Bikers and walkers pay $15.
• The Rainbow Forest Museum contains exhibits, park information, books and restrooms.  The Painted Desert Visitor Center provide all of that plus a gift shop and convenience store next door.
• Check the park website for closures and weather alerts before heading out to avoid disappointment.  https://www.nps.gov/pefo/index.htm
• In the summer be prepared for extreme heat and below freezing temperatures in the winter.  Also watch out for the occasional snow storm and summer monsoon thunderstorms.  Lightening and flash flooding can happen quickly as a result of these storms.
• The park sits at about 5,800’ above sea level.  At this height, you may experience altitude sickness.  Nausea, dizziness, headaches, rapid heartbeat and shortness of breath all may indicate altitude sickness.  Staying hydrated, avoiding heavy meals, resting occasionally and avoiding alcohol and cigarettes all help keep the sickness at bay. 
• Don’t forget the sunscreen no matter what season you visit the park.
• Bring plenty of water and snacks.  You can find drinking water at the Painted Desert convenience store and the Rainbow Forest Museum but nowhere else in the park.
• Stay on the trails to avoid crumbling cliffs and damaging desert plants.
• Pets are allowed everywhere except park buildings.  They must be on a leash no longer than six feet.  Pick up their poop and keep them away from wildlife.
• Holbrook offers hotels and restaurants.  A thirty minute drive takes you from Holbrook to either the north or south entrance of the park. 
• There is no camping, RV or primitive camping within the park except backpacking into the wilderness.  You must obtain a permit in person at either visitor center.  There are a number of private campgrounds outside the park, though.